World War II put women back into the work force and back into pants. I think I had better steer clear of most cropped pants. In the next couple of posts, I want to cover several styles of ankle boots — tall ankle boots, short ankle booties, ankle boots with the little dip in the front, and ankle boots that are a normal ankle height. These always-right jeans lay the groundwork for great style, with a slight stretching fabric and a classic clean-cut fit. Leave them un-hemmed for an intentionally distressed finish.
Embraced by farmers and laborers, jeans ultimately became the iconic garment of the late 20th century and are, today, a staple of every wardrobe. Queen Victoria's eldest son, Edward the Prince of Wales, who would become Edward VII gave his name to the Edwardian fashion period, and is credited for setting the tone for men's trousers in the modern era.
Edward introduced trouser cuffs to lift the trouser hem above the dirt, and popularized trouser creases. While cuffs add weight to the pant leg for a smoother line, cuff can visually shorten the leg, so should be restricted to taller men. Edward was also known to wear a type of shorts while on safari.
The shorts had an adjustable hem. Paul Poiret, the famous early 20th century fashion designer, introduced a line based on the Ballet Russes' Sheherazade which featured a long tunic worn over harem pants.
The loose style pants eventually found their way into women's wardrobes as hostess or palazzo pants, sometimes worn at the beach. They became quite popular in the s and were seen on fashion icons like Coco Chanel and Katharine Hepburn.
During World War I when British women took over factory and farm work, replacing men gone into the military, pants took on a new role for women as a practical garment. World War II put women back into the work force and back into pants. Famous posters of female workers encouraged women to wear practical bib overalls and dungarees, or what we now call jeans.
The later 20th century saw an explosion of trouser styles for men and women. Though men's dress pants have changed little since the s, it is not unusual to see men wearing shorts, a type of pants once worn only by children.
Jeans evolved from practical work garments to the symbol of outsider fashion, to the classic garment no one can be without. Various styles of trousers have come and gone in the past years with certain styles disappearing for decades, then coming back full force. The stirrup stretch pants of the early s returned in the s. Capris have disappeared and made a come-back. Trousers became acceptable dress and business wear for women by the late s, with pants suits worn by women in high positions.
The zipper closure was invented by Whitcomb Judson, an American traveling salesman. First used as shoe fasteners, zippers did not become a garment closure until the 20th century.
By the end of the Great depression exclusive men's tailors incorporated zippers into fly closures. By the s, zippers had become the main closure for trousers.
In the mid 20th century, women's pants generally featured a side zipper. Social norms of the s and s dictated a feminine modesty that seemed threatened by the easy removal made possible by front zip slacks. Side zippers also created a smoother line in the form fitting slacks of the day. Front zippered jeans can appear and feel bulky. Capri Pants were introduced by Sonja de Lennart in Named after her favorite vacation spot, the fitted mid calf length pants became an instant classic worn by Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly.
TV wives had, until that time, usually worn skirts or dresses. Gauchos are loose, skirt-like pants with just below the knee hems, and look well paired with boots. Shorts, at first worn only by children and boys under 8 years of age, gained popularity as the 20th century advanced. Burmuda shorts feature hems just above the knee and were popularized by the British in warmer climates. Burmuda shorts were paired with high socks, dress shirts, ties, and jackets.
In the United Kingdom, children still wear shorts as part of their school uniform paired with a school blazer and high socks. Pedal Pushers appeared on the August 28, cover of Life Magazine. Shortened Capri's or lengthened shorts, Pedal Pushers, also called Clam Diggers, end just below the knee, convenient for bike riding or clam digging.
They are very similar to knickerbockers. Knickerbockers are a form of kike pants or golf pants ending just below the knee with a fastener and were usually worn by boys or men.
Bell Bottoms, popular in the s counterculture movement, widen into a bell just below the knee and came in high or low waisted styles. What People Wore When: Martin's Press; New York; Tim Gunn's Fashion Bible: Though zippers were introduced in the early 20th century, they did not catch on for women until later.
By the s, zippers were used more often sometimes for decoration, sometimes for function. When women began to wear pants, side zippers provided a sleek look that was popular. Front zips were seen as too masculine. It was when the ladies began to wear jeans that the front zip crept into women's wear.
Mid-century teenaged girls would wear men's or boy's jeans with front closures. The trend became so popular that jeans for women started to feature front zippers. Though some brands had introduced front zips for women earlier, they did not catch on until the s. Pleats are not to be confused with creased pants. Creased pants feature a crease that extends down the leg.
Pleats are created when the fabric is folded over on itself and sewed in place. Salwar pleaded pants have been worn in India for over 2, years. Another pleated style called Gurkha trousers were worn by the military in Nepal. Tackling the midi-skirt trend is easy when you pair one with ankle boots.
Make use of your summer kimonos by wearing them with ankle boots and leggings or skinny jeans. Make a summery dress work for fall by wearing it with ankle boots and a jacket. Throw fashion rules out the window and wear your ankle boots with visible socks pulled up and a skirt. Add a leather jacket for some added toughness.
Ankle boots look amazing with a maxi dress or skirt. In the colder weather, throw on a jacket or cardigan. Go for a pair of fun, colored ankle boots instead of just brown or black. They will instantly make your outfit so much more unique. So chic and easy! Boyfriend jeans are typically cuffed anyway, which makes them perfect for ankle boots.
Make denim shorts work for fall and winter by pairing them with ankle boots and tights. Leggings and ankle boots are such a comfy match. Add a flannel shirt to be even more comfortable. The tops of most shoes are closer to your ankle than the support in the rear, and the trouser should be brushing the shoe all the way around.
A single horizontal fold that dips across the front of your ankle. The hem of the trousers rests lightly on the top of the shoe in front and covers the highest point of the shoe leather in the back. A half-break is comfortable, conservative, and inoffensive in all settings. There may be smaller folds above or below it as well, and the cloth is resting firmly on the top of the shoe. Socks and the opening of the shoe are typically hidden. Blue jeans are often worn with a full break these days.
Trousers with a cuff on them also break slightly differently than trousers without. A big break and a cuff looks silly — and unnecessary as the cuff is hidden under the excess fabric.
Types of Trouser Break
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